Lay Day 1234 in Mindelo, Cape Verde

At the cafe writing this blog in Mindelo across the street from Marina Mindelo where Altair is docked.  There is a dust storm from the Sahara Desert on mainland Africa blanketing the island with fine ride dust.  All incoming/outgoing flights are canceled today.  We awoke at anchor today in this dust storm of the shore of Ilha de Santa Luzia.  Photo below from last night before the dust arrived.

This was just a 20 mile trip from Marina Mindelo where Altair is staying until the start of the next leg of ARC on Wednesday.  After anchoring there we were approached by a dow rigged sailing fishing vessel and offered fish for the price of 50 euro for 1 lobster or grouper (small red grouper).  We did not buy any fish at that price and after talking they did come down to 50 euro for 2 fish but still no deal.  Marc and I set off in the tender to spearfish around the rocks shown in the photo.  The area had been harvested very thoroughly by the locals and Marc found nothing worthy of shooting.  

Days ashore here have been spent doing some tasks on the boat, exploring the town of Mindelo, and taking this excursion to Praia Salamansa (Salamansa Beach) about 20 km from the marina.  The photo above shows the salt spray blowing up into the sand and rock that makes up the whole of the Cape Verde Island chain.  The wind was blowing here yesterday, strong enough just to kite on but a bit unsteady with strength.  Marc went out to the surf break while Clint and myself kited and Leanne chilled on the beach.  Below shows the kite center and bar at Salamansa.  Owned by "J", his boys are skilled kiteboarders and the entire crew there are helpful and welcoming.  J was very forthcoming with the local knowledge of the spot and its hazards.   They serve cold beer and food from the grill. 

 After Marc's surf session he entered the wave zone with his camera to get some photos of me kiting. 

I have difficulty writing a descriptive way to explain this landscape so i hope the photographs show just how dry, baron, and desolate this rocky terrain in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean really is.  There are very few green plants scattered around once you leave the town. 

The roads are all hand laid stones.  Stonewalls line the roads and are seen surrounding ruins on the hillsides.  In the background is the islands highest point, a mountain perpetually covered in thin cloud

Altair Crew; Clint with kite, Marc with board, Leanne foreground. 

 Leanne launching the kite for Clint.  An atmosphere of sand, rock, and salt water where the wind blows and the surf slams.  I love it here.

The town of Mindelo has been very entertaining.  I have heard from the crew from South Africa that it reminds them of that land.  Some areas remind me of the old Caribbean like Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic and likely Cuba though I have not visited there.  The rally control team has thrown a welcome cocktail party with traditional music and rum drinks.  They have made it welcoming and fun for the boat crews, thinking of everything that boats will need and making it easy to acquire whatever that may be. 

Sometimes even though you have had dinner the food just looks good and you order more.  Prices for food and drink are low, this plate of shrimp cost in Cape Verde Escudos $850 the equivalent of $8 USD.  Beers cost $2.40 for large draft and cocktails cost $3.50 to $4.50.  

I have been running in the mornings.  It has been nice to see other travelers and locals out excersizing along with me at that time both here and in Las Palmas.  This is in contrast to everywhere in the Caribbean that i have traveled and been the only person out running, etc. 

The beach near town, families here even early in the morning. 

Men fish from the embarcadero early in the morning in front of a shipwreck in the harbor, one of many wrecks here within sight of the marina.  

Beachfront athletic park with basketball courts and soccer pitch and playgrounds. 

Large painted rocks.  Photo looking North toward Mindelo town and marina across the harbor.  

I've been shy to take photos of the towns, architecture and villages mostly because there are always locals walking around.  Taking photos of people without permission has always bothered me but now it seems worse, like it means more to me to avoid this behavior than it did before.  This picture is a good representation of how the environment is ; there are green things growing in the town centers where they can be kept care with a close eye.  Otherwise there is not much growing anywhere.  All freshwater on the island is from large desalination plants.  These plants use a lot of energy to turn sea water into drinking water so the resource is limited and expensive.  The buildings are painted pastel colors and have a mix of Mediterranean and Caribbean style to them.  In Mindelo the streets are very free of garbage owed to the crews who walk them and pick up the litter.  There are a number of beggars who mainly hang in front of the marina but otherwise movement for the travelers is worry free.